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Trend Watch · Issue 006 · 29 December 2025

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Issue 006

Year-end: the five things that earned a Tier-A grade in 2025

And the three things that lost theirs.

Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep

Verdict № 01
01
Tier A

Tranexamic acid (oral)

Holds Up

The most consequential pigmentation-supplement story of 2025. Three new RCTs confirmed the meta-analysis signal: 250 mg twice daily for 8–12 weeks produces measurable, replicated reduction in melasma severity, with adjunct topicals stacking favourably. Screen for VTE risk, work with a dermatologist, and treat as a course rather than a habit. Earned its Tier-A grade and held it through the year.

Bottom line

The supplement that genuinely changed our prescribing in 2025.

Verdict № 02
02
Tier A

Heliocare (Polypodium leucotomos)

Holds Up

Re-graded up from Tier B at the start of the year. The accumulated evidence on UV-induced erythema, MED extension, and PLE prophylaxis is now substantial enough that we recommend it routinely as an adjunct for melasma and photodermatosis patients. It does not replace SPF; it complements one. The peri-laser protocol literature, in particular, became hard to argue with.

Bottom line

Adjunct, not replacement. The clearest 2025 upgrade in our supplement section.

Verdict № 03
03
Tier A

Centella asiatica triterpenes (TECA)

Holds Up

The standardised triterpene fraction (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid) — distinct from generic 'centella' marketing — earned the upgrade after a strong 2025 wound-healing literature year. The peri-procedure data is now unambiguous; the rosacea and barrier-flare data is encouraging if more modest. The labelling issue remains: not every centella product contains the standardised fraction.

Bottom line

Buy on standardised triterpene content. Marketing 'centella' is not the same molecule.