What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com
What WorksSkin
Search/

Trend Watch · Issue 001 · 20 October 2025

ARCHIVE
Issue 001

The launch issue: what we believe in, what we don't

A founding manifesto disguised as a verdict column. Three trends, no advertisers.

Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep

Verdict № 01
01
Tier D

10-step K-beauty routines

Misleading

The aesthetic appeal of an elaborate routine is real; the marginal benefit beyond a competent four-step protocol is, as far as the literature goes, indistinguishable from zero. Most of the steps in a 10-step regimen are duplicate humectants in different bottles, plus a couple of essences whose function the moisturiser already covers. The category sells variety, not endpoints. We are happy for anyone who enjoys it as a ritual — but the line at which we are willing to call something 'evidence-supported' sits well below ten products.

Bottom line

Pleasing as ritual. Indefensible as efficacy. Five steps is plenty.

Verdict № 02
02
Tier A

Daily SPF (high UVA-PF)

Holds Up

If we could only recommend one habit on the entire site, this would be it. The single most-replicated finding in cosmetic dermatology is that consistent daily application of broad-spectrum, high-UVA-PF sunscreen prevents both photo-aging and the slow accumulation of pigmentary disorder. The 2024 update of the long-running Australian RCT confirmed what we already knew: people who applied SPF 30+ daily for 4.5 years had measurably less photo-aging than the control group. Apply two finger-lengths. Reapply if outdoors.

Bottom line

The single highest-leverage step in any routine. Two finger-lengths, every morning.

Verdict № 03
03
Tier B

'Skin types' as fixed identity

Partly True

The Fitzpatrick scale is useful; the consumer language of 'I have combination skin' less so. Skin shifts seasonally, hormonally, with age, with climate. Treating one's skin type as a fixed identity locks people into product categories that no longer match what their skin is actually doing. The more useful question is 'what is my skin doing right now?' — answered every six to eight weeks. The four-square 'oily / dry / combination / sensitive' grid we have used for 40 years deserves retirement.

Bottom line

Useful starting frame; bad as fixed identity. Re-assess seasonally.

Cited sources

  1. № 01pmid-2909796on /sources →