Transparency · Sources
Last updated
Where the evidence comes from.
This page is the catalogue of every actual citation behind our published briefs — 81 entries, deduped and grouped by source family. Each entry lists which briefs cite it. Contributing briefs: 1 ingredient, 22 product, 1 supplement, 1 concern, 1 routine, 1 trend-watch. Ingredient briefs supply primary literature (PubMed-indexed studies); product briefs supply formulation and review references; the other surfaces add cross-references via an explicit citations field on the brief. Per-claim context still lives on the brief itself. The grading rubric is on the how we rate page, and the broader trust spine — principles, conflicts, cadence — on the methodology dossier.
Primary literature
Peer-reviewed clinical trials, meta-analyses, and mechanistic studies. PubMed-indexed where possible.
- № 01
Ananthapadmanabhan KP et al. Surfactant-induced skin damage. Int J Cosm Sci 2004.
- № 02
Bala HR et al. Topical tranexamic acid in melasma. JEADV 2018.
- № 03
Bissett DL et al. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin. Dermatol Surg 2005.
- № 04
Bissonnette R et al. Long-UVA protection of a new sunscreen filter. JEADV 2022.
- № 05
Bryden AM et al. Contact allergy to octocrylene. BJD 2006.
- № 06
Castanedo-Cazares JP et al. Iron oxide sunscreen in melasma. Photochem Photobiol 2014.
- № 07
Chaudhuri RK et al. Bakuchiol topical antioxidant. Int J Cosm Sci 2014.
- № 08
Cunliffe WJ et al. Adapalene gel: clinical and laboratory studies. JAAD 1997.
- № 09
Draelos ZD et al. Ceramide-based cleansers in barrier repair. JDD 2018.
- № 10
Hakozaki T et al. Niacinamide in pigmentation: melanosome transfer inhibition. BJD 2002.
- № 11
Hakozaki T et al. Niacinamide in pigmentation. BJD 2002.
- № 12
Kang et al. — Arch Dermatol · 2005
- № 13
Kang S et al. Adapalene long-term tolerability. Cutis 2005.
- № 14
Kim SJ et al. Efficacy and safety of topical TXA. Acta Derm Venereol 2017.
- № 15
Lebwohl M et al. Salicylic acid pH-activity relationship. JID 2007.
- № 16
Mukherjee et al. — Clin Interv Aging · 2006
- № 17
Otberg N et al. Topical penetration kinetics of caffeine. Int J Cosm Sci 2008.
- № 18
Pavicic T et al. Hyaluronic acid in skin hydration. JDD 2011.
- № 19
Pinnell SR et al. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 2001.
- № 20
Schauder S, Ippen H. Contact and photocontact sensitivity to oxybenzone. Contact Derm 1997.
- № 21
Schmid D et al. Apple stem cell extract for cosmetic use: a critical view. SOFW J 2008.
- № 22
Soma Y et al. Niacinamide in barrier repair. BJD 2005.
- № 23
Soma Y et al. Niacinamide in barrier repair. Br J Dermatol 2005.
- № 24
Spada F et al. CeraVe Moisturizing Cream in eczema. JDD 2018.
- № 25
Tan J et al. Adapalene 0.1% vs tretinoin in acne. JAAD 2018.
- № 26
Thielitz et al. — Am J Clin Dermatol · 2008
- № 27
Tsai TF, Maibach HI. SLS irritation thresholds. Contact Derm 1999.
- № 28
Verallo-Rowell VM et al. Azelaic 20% vs hydroquinone 4% in melasma. Acta Derm Venereol 1989.
- № 29
Warshaw EM et al. NACDG patch test results. Dermatitis 2020.
- № 30
Regulatory filings
Filings and registers from regulators (US FDA, EU 1223/2009, India CDSCO, Korea MFDS).
- № 01
EMA. Reflection paper on extracellular vesicles. 2023.
- № 02
FDA. Cosmetic product claims and the 'stem cell' label. 2018.
Guideline & consensus reviews
Guideline-body recommendations and systematic / narrative reviews of an existing evidence base.
- № 01
Bikowski J. The use of cleansers as therapeutic concomitants. JDD 2001.
- № 02
Bukhari SNA et al. Hyaluronic acid: a key biomolecule. Int J Biol Macromol 2018.
- № 03
Bylka W et al. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol 2013.
- № 04
Chularojanamontri L et al. Moisturizers for acne. Indian J Dermatol 2014.
- № 05
Draelos ZD. Cosmeceuticals for sebum control. Dermatol Ther 2008.
- № 06
Draelos ZD. Therapeutic moisturizers. Dermatol Clin 2000.
- № 07
Hashim PW et al. Topical centella in scar management. JCD 2017.
- № 08
Herman A, Herman AP. Caffeine's mechanisms of action. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2013.
- № 09
Kalluri R, LeBleu VS. The biology, function, and biomedical applications of exosomes. Science 2020.
- № 10
Kim YJ et al. Exosomes derived from stem cells in skin: current status. Cells 2020.
- № 11
Kligman AM, Mills OH. Acne cosmetica and acne mechanica. JAAD 1972.
- № 12
Kornhauser A et al. Salicylic acid in acne. Cosm Toiletries 2011.
- № 13
Lim HW et al. UVA filter benchmarking. JID 2017.
- № 14
Lim HW et al. Visible light and pigmentation. JAAD 2016.
- № 15
Liu RH et al. Azelaic acid in pregnancy. Am J Clin Dermatol 2020.
- № 16
Loden M. Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function. Clin Dermatol 2012.
- № 17
Lynde CW et al. Ceramides as moisturizers. JCMS 2019.
- № 18
Mukhopadhyay P. pH and the acid mantle. Indian J Dermatol 2011.
- № 19
Passeron T et al. Sunscreens with biological filters in melasma. Pigm Cell Res 2018.
- № 20
Sambandan DR, Ratner D. Sunscreens: an overview. JAAD 2011.
- № 21
Sieber MA, Hegel JK. Azelaic acid: properties and mode of action. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2014.
- № 22
Stamford NPJ. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid. JCD 2012.
- № 23
Subramanyan K. Mild cleansing technologies. Cosmet Dermatol 2004.
- № 24
Surber C et al. Sunscreen vehicle and acne. JEADV 2018.
- № 25
Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 2013.
- № 26
Trehan S et al. Plant stem cells in cosmetics: a critical review. Int J Cosm Sci 2017.
- № 27
Tse TW, Hui E. Tranexamic acid: an important adjuvant in melasma. JCD 2013.
- № 28
Webster GF. Topical therapy for acne. JAAD 1995.
- № 29
Zirwas MJ et al. The role of moisturizers in contact dermatitis. JCMS 2019.
Manufacturer dossiers
Manufacturer-supplied technical data. Read but down-weighted per methodology v1.1.
- № 01
Avène clinical dossier, in vivo PPD/SPF for Cleanance Solaire. 2023.
- № 02
Bioderma Photoderm Spot-Age in vivo dossier. 2023.
- № 03
CeraVe formulation dossier — MVE delivery. 2020.
- № 04
CeraVe MVE delivery dossier. 2020.
- № 05
Deconstruct azelaic 15% formulation dossier. 2023.
- № 06
Galderma adapalene clinical dossier. 2020.
- № 07
Galderma Cetaphil dossier — 70-year sensitive-skin data. 2020.
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LRP Effaclar dossier, in vivo seborrhea data. 2022.
- № 09
LRP Toleriane dossier — in vivo TEWL data. 2022.
- № 10
Minimalist Niacinamide 5% dossier. 2022.
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Minimalist TXA dossier. 2023.
- № 12
Neutrogena Hydro Boost dossier — clinical hydration data. 2021.
- № 13
Paula's Choice 2% BHA clinical dossier. 2020.
- № 14
Re'equil clinical dossier, in vivo SPF 50 / PPD 22. 2022.
- № 15
Surber C, Davis AF. Bioavailability and bioequivalence of dermatological formulations. CRC Press 2011.
- № 16
Surber C, Davis AF. Bioavailability of dermatological formulations. CRC Press 2011.
- № 17
The Ordinary Az 10% formulation dossier. 2022.
- № 18
Vanicream allergen-screening dossier. 2022.
- № 19
Vichy clinical dossier. Capital Soleil UV-Age in vivo PPD 46. 2023.
When sources disagree.
The cascade is short and public. A vehicle-controlled, replicated RCT outranks a single open-label trial. A guideline body's recommendation outranks a brand technical sheet. A 2024 meta-analysis outranks a 2014 narrative review. Where the literature is genuinely mixed, the brief says so in the bottom-line verdict — not in the small print.
When new evidence shifts the balance, the affected guide is re-graded under the published review cadence and any tier change is logged in the corrections record.
Spotted a citation we missed?
We treat reader-flagged sources the same as internally-found ones. If a recent trial would change a tier, write to the editors at editorial@whatworksskin.com — we will read it, and if it changes anything, the correction goes in the public log.
Read the corrections log →