What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Routine · PM · Pigment-prone

P. 05 · ROUTINE

The retinoid + azelaic night.

Tretinoin + azelaic + barrier seal. The slow-work counterpart to the AM stack.

— § 01

The steps.

  1. 01
    On returning home

    Cleanse — oil first, then gel

    Two-step removal

    Sunscreen, sebum, particulate pollution. A cleansing oil emulsifies the lipid-soluble half; a low-pH gel removes the rest. Compromised skin should not skip the second step — but the first must be gentle.

    BiodermaTier A
    Sensibio H2O Micellar

    Gentle removal

  2. 02
    After patting dry

    Centella / panthenol serum

    Anti-inflammatory layer

    Madecassoside or panthenol-5% as the calming primer. This is the layer that distinguishes a barrier-repair routine from a hydration routine.

    Skin1004Tier A
    Madagascar Centella Asiatica Ampoule

    Reference centella

  3. 03
    0:05

    Ceramide-rich moisturiser

    Lipid replacement

    Ceramides 3 + 1 + 6-II in a multi-vesicular emulsion. The biomimetic lipid stack the stratum corneum is missing.

    CeraVeTier A
    Moisturising Cream

    Reference ceramide cream

  4. 04
    0:08 · final layer

    Occlusive — Cicaplast or petrolatum

    Seal the repair

    Slugging the perimeter (jawline, around the nose, anywhere visibly compromised). Petrolatum or Cicaplast Baume B5+. Skip if oily-prone.