What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Routine · PM · 35+ skin

P. 13 · ROUTINE

Tretinoin without the chaos.

Buffered tretinoin protocol with ceramide sandwich. Twelve-week ramp.

— § 01

The steps.

  1. 01
    PM

    Oil cleanser, then cream cleanser

    Double cleanse, gentle

    An oil-then-cream double cleanse removes mineral SPF and the day's oxidative load without stripping the barrier. The single most-skipped step in PM anti-aging routines, and the one that determines whether tretinoin will actually be tolerated.

    DHCTier A
    Deep Cleansing Oil

    Default oil

    CetaphilTier A
    Gentle Cleanser

    Cream step

  2. 02
    PM

    Buffered tretinoin 0.025%

    Wait 20 min, sandwich method

    Apply a pea-sized amount of tretinoin to a thin moisturiser layer (the buffer) on dry skin. Start twice weekly for two weeks, then alternate nights for four weeks, then nightly. The 12-week ramp matters far more than the strength.

    GaldermaTier A
    Retino-A 0.025%

    Default

    JanssenTier A
    Retin-A Micro 0.04%

    Premium

  3. 03
    PM

    Ceramide-rich night cream

    Generous, occlusive

    The barrier-protecting layer that closes the sandwich. A ceramide + cholesterol + fatty acid blend in a richer texture preserves the lipid bilayer that tretinoin transiently disrupts. Apply 5–10 minutes after the tretinoin.

    CeraVeTier A
    PM Facial Lotion

    Default

    La Roche-PosayTier A
    Toleriane Riche

    Premium

  4. 04
    PM

    Lip + eye occlusive

    Targeted, petrolatum-based

    The first signs of tretinoin retinisation appear at the perioral and periorbital margins. A small petrolatum dot at these zones — applied before the tretinoin — preempts the cracking that would otherwise force you to pause the protocol.

    AquaphorTier A
    Healing Ointment

    Default

    VaselineTier A
    Original

    Budget

Cited sources

  1. № 01pmid-2909796on /sources →
  2. № 02pmid-16230554on /sources →