— § 01
The steps.
- 01PM
Oil cleanser, then cream cleanser
Double cleanse, gentle
An oil-then-cream double cleanse removes mineral SPF and the day's oxidative load without stripping the barrier. The single most-skipped step in PM anti-aging routines, and the one that determines whether tretinoin will actually be tolerated.
DHCTier ADeep Cleansing OilDefault oil
CetaphilTier AGentle CleanserCream step
- 02PM
Buffered tretinoin 0.025%
Wait 20 min, sandwich method
Apply a pea-sized amount of tretinoin to a thin moisturiser layer (the buffer) on dry skin. Start twice weekly for two weeks, then alternate nights for four weeks, then nightly. The 12-week ramp matters far more than the strength.
GaldermaTier ARetino-A 0.025%Default
JanssenTier ARetin-A Micro 0.04%Premium
- 03PM
Ceramide-rich night cream
Generous, occlusive
The barrier-protecting layer that closes the sandwich. A ceramide + cholesterol + fatty acid blend in a richer texture preserves the lipid bilayer that tretinoin transiently disrupts. Apply 5–10 minutes after the tretinoin.
CeraVeTier APM Facial LotionDefault
La Roche-PosayTier AToleriane RichePremium
- 04PM
Lip + eye occlusive
Targeted, petrolatum-based
The first signs of tretinoin retinisation appear at the perioral and periorbital margins. A small petrolatum dot at these zones — applied before the tretinoin — preempts the cracking that would otherwise force you to pause the protocol.
AquaphorTier AHealing OintmentDefault
VaselineTier AOriginalBudget