What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Routine · PM · Adult acne

P. 10 · ROUTINE

Adapalene the right way.

The OTC retinoid most clinicians wish patients started with first.

— § 01

The steps.

  1. 01
    PM

    Gentle non-foaming cleanser

    Low pH, fragrance-free

    Adapalene's tolerance window is set by what you do before it. A non-foaming, low-pH cleanser preserves the acid mantle and avoids the cumulative micro-injury that turns a tolerable retinoid into an intolerable one.

  2. 02
    PM

    Adapalene 0.1% gel

    Pea-sized, dry skin

    Apply to fully dry skin (wait 20 minutes after cleansing) at a pea-sized dose for the entire face. Start three nights a week for two weeks, then alternate nights for two weeks, then every night. The biggest mistake is starting nightly — and quitting in the third week.

    DifferinTier A
    Adapalene Gel 0.1%

    Default

    GaldermaTier A
    Deriva-CMS

    With moisturiser

  3. 03
    PM

    Ceramide moisturiser

    Wait 5 minutes after adapalene

    Sandwiching the retinoid between moisturiser layers (the so-called 'sandwich method') significantly improves tolerance with minimal efficacy loss. We prefer the simpler 'wait + buffer' approach for adult acne — moisturiser five minutes after the adapalene, slightly more generously than usual.

  4. 04
    PM

    Spot treatment as needed

    Benzoyl peroxide 2.5%, 2× per week

    On active inflammatory lesions only. BPO is bactericidal and prevents adapalene resistance over years; nightly full-face use is unnecessary and dries the surrounding skin. Apply to the lesion, wait, moisturise around it.