What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Product · Antioxidant serum · Reference

P. 16 · REVIEW

SkinCeuticals

C E Ferulic.

The Pinnell trio — 15% L-ascorbic acid, 1% α-tocopherol, 0.5% ferulic acid at pH 3.2. The formulation that defined the modern vitamin C serum twenty years ago and remains the benchmark every generic is judged against.

— § 01

The scorecard.

Formulation integrity
The Pinnell trio reference: 15% LAA + 1% E + 0.5% ferulic at pH 3.2. Patent-defining.
25⁄25
Evidence per claim
Multiple in-vivo, replicated. The most-cited cosmetic antioxidant.
24⁄25
Tolerability
First-week sting universal; persistent stinging means a barrier-rebuild detour.
18⁄25
Value
₹ 12,000 / 30 mL is the price of the patent. Maelove Glow Maker reaches 80% of the formula at one-fifth.
11⁄25

— § 02

The ingredients.

Tier
Ingredient
Role
Note
L-ascorbic acid 15%
Tocopherol (Vit E) 1%
Ferulic acid 0.5%
Triethanolamine
Phenoxyethanol

— § 04

If not this.

MaeloveTier A
Glow Maker

84⁄100

Same trinity. The honest dupe.

TimelessTier B
20% C + E + Ferulic

78⁄100

Higher LAA, less stable. Refrigerate.

KlairsTier B
Freshly Juiced 5% Vit C

72⁄100

Gentler ramp — 5% LAA at pH 4.5.

— § 05

Frequently asked.

Is it really worth ₹12,000?

The patent-pure formulation is real and slightly outperforms generic equivalents in stability over 6 months. But a Maelove Glow Maker at ₹2,200 reaches roughly 85% of the same in-vivo endpoints. If you can spend it without flinching, the original is excellent. If not, the Maelove is not a compromise — it is a sensible choice.

Does it expire?

Yes. Three months once opened, six unopened. The colour is your guide: pale straw → orange → bin.

Why does it tingle?

L-ascorbic acid at pH 3.2 is irritating to the stratum corneum on application. The tingle should fade within 5 minutes. Persistent stinging means your barrier is the bottleneck — back off, build with niacinamide for two weeks, return at every-other-day.

Can I use it under sunscreen?

Yes — that is its primary job. Apply on dry skin, wait 5 minutes, then layer SPF. C E Ferulic compounds the biological photoprotection of SPF, it does not replace it.