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INGREDIENT · 19 / 28FILED · 18 APR 2026

Ingredient · Meroterpene · Bakuchiol

P. 19 · BRIEF

Bakuchiol.

One small RCT. Two billion marketing dollars.

Often called "plant retinol." It is not a retinoid, not pharmacologically related to retinoids, and not as well-evidenced as retinoids. It is, however, a quietly useful anti-aging active for people who genuinely cannot tolerate them — pregnancy, severe sensitivity, post-procedure recovery. Calibrate expectations accordingly.

— § 01

What bakuchiol actually is.

Bakuchiol is a phenolic meroterpene extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant with a long history in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine. Its current cosmetic celebrity rests almost entirely on a single 2019 randomised trial by Dhaliwal et al. that compared 0.5% bakuchiol against 0.5% retinol over 12 weeks and found broadly similar wrinkle and pigment endpoints with substantially less irritation. It is a real, replicable result — but a single trial is not the same as a 30-year evidence base. Industry has, predictably, treated the citation as if it were both.

— § 03

The evidence.

Wrinkle reduction (vs retinol)
Dhaliwal 2019 RCT, n=44

Comparable wrinkle improvement, less irritation. Important caveat: small trial, single mfr.-funded follow-ups.

55%
Pigment / dyspigmentation
Same trial, secondary

Modest improvement at 12 weeks. Slower than tretinoin or azelaic.

48%
Tolerability
Self-reported VAS

The headline finding. Stinging, peeling, redness all dramatically lower than retinol arm.

88%
Photo-stability
In vitro

Photo-stable — usable AM, unlike most retinoids.

82%

— § 04

Concentration & vehicle.

0.5%
Reference dose

Matches the Dhaliwal RCT arm. Twice-daily, 12 weeks.

1.0%
Upper useful limit

Marginal additional benefit; rising vehicle and oxidation issues.

— § 07

On our shelf.

BiossanceTier B
Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum

Best-formulated bakuchiol on the Indian market. 1% in clean vehicle.

78⁄100Not yet reviewed
The Inkey ListTier B
Bakuchiol

1% in oil. Affordable entry; oil-vehicle limits stacking.

74⁄100Not yet reviewed
MinimalistTier B
Bakuchiol 1%

Indian-brand standout. Reasonable price, real concentration.

72⁄100Not yet reviewed
Ole HenriksenTier C
Goodnight Glow

Bakuchiol + AHA blend. Clever marketing, diluted dose.

64⁄100Not yet reviewed

— § 08

Frequently asked.

Is bakuchiol really 'plant retinol'?

No. It is a meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia with no structural similarity to retinoids. The marketing claim rests entirely on one 12-week, single-centre, manufacturer-supported trial showing similar wrinkle endpoints. Calling it a retinol is shorthand for 'sometimes produces similar visible results.' It is not a chemical equivalent.

Should I switch from retinol to bakuchiol?

Only if you cannot tolerate retinoids. Retinol and tretinoin still have decades more evidence and stronger pigment, acne, and collagen endpoints. Bakuchiol is the right choice when retinoids are not — pregnancy, severe sensitivity, post-procedure rebuild.

Can I use it AM and PM?

Yes. Photo-stable, no photosensitivity. The closest thing to a 'use anytime' anti-aging active.

Does it really not cause irritation?

It causes meaningfully less than retinoids in most people. 'No irritation' is overstated — psoraleas as a family have a small but real photosensitisation signal we still want longer follow-up on.

— § 10

Reviewed by.

Reviewed by
Dr. Paul
Filed 18 APR 2026